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Message board > Care & maintenance > Hardy 25 AQ151 290 Penta Leg - Control lever/cable problem
Message 4 of 4
Posted by member Mike on Monday 5 August 2024
Thanks for the help.
The fix was really simple - no new cable needed.
There’s a spring loaded lever on the right side of the leg towards the transom. This was completely seized with marine gunk…. a flat bladed screwdriver, a few light hammer taps and copious wd40.
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Message 3 of 4
Posted by member Colin on Friday 26 July 2024
Hi Mike, just to add, I forgot this in my haste -
Sometimes it may be wise to photograph something before you disassemble something as you may put it back together in a different/wrong way (assuming that someone before you hasn't already reassembled it wrongly of course)
From my experience with boats, I spend way more time correcting other peoples wrongdoings, mistakes and bad workmanship than almost anything else!!!
There are ball detents in the helm control box along with small springs and parts, all of which can go 'awol' while you have them apart - rule of thumb here is, unless you are very confident about working on such - don't strip it.
Problem is more likely to be in the cables and linkages. The grease can go hard and dry in the control box, so at least check this and clean and relube with marine or silicone grease - generously!
If your boat helm control has one of these multiple electrical connections etc (mine doesn't) tred carefully and isolate everything before working on it!
Then with the cables still connected in the control box, try the operation of the cables to find where the problem lies and rectify, usually more complex than I make it sound - or else it can be easy, just depends!
Sorry, must dash - if I have missed anything, perhaps someone will correct it, I was leaving this for someone else to reply but they are all out playing eith their boats and I am joining them (LOL!)
Col.
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Message 2 of 4
Posted by member Colin on Friday 26 July 2024
Hi Mike,
Not exactly rocket science, its essential that all cables and linkages operate smoothly and easily with minimum resistance. The inner can become stuck in the outer and the clevis type connections, all can become gunged up in the marine environment.
The Helm control boxes also can cause problems and I had to strip mine at the helm and clean up all the linkages etc.
With the end connections/clevis pins can be removed and the cables operated independently to see if they operate smoothly, if not - why, then ensure that everything has a fair coating of marine grease, be generous, lubrication as they say is everything!
Sometimes the wierd route of the control cables can result in kinks - again this is unwanted if you want the controls to operate smoothly, sometimes you can ease these out and re use them, other times a new cable is preferable, sorry I cannot say what length you will need, you will just have to measure the cable you have and this can be awkward depending on how the cable is routed along the underside of the gunwales etc on your boat.
Its amazing what a difference a clean up and lubrication can do to the 'feel' of the controls on your boat, so it's worth doing from time to time.
The problem with the cables is oiling/greasing them while they are in situ, sometimes may be better to remove them to do this?
All lingages arms should be cleaned up, I often use cheap new tooth brushes for this but you can get those little micro wire brushes (copper type best) from e-bay or Amazon etc. Use clean scrap rags to ensure all remains clean before you re-grease/oil.
In my experience, a cable will only need to be replaced if there is serious corrosion present, or it's too badly kinked and retains 'memory' of where it's kinked, or the inner/outer strands/construction starts to fail, usually though they are relatively easy and inexpensive to replace. Depending on how it's routed on your boat, it may be wise to attach the new cable to the old before carefully teasing it into position if its concealed behind panelling/boat structure etc.If replacing, ensure the new cables have the appropriate end fittings for your application.
Sorry, had to rush this as we are just leaving for the Marina to spend a lovely sunny day on and around the boat - not been too many of those this year, sadly!
Hope you get it sorted!
Col.
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Message 1 of 4
Posted by member Mike on Thursday 25 July 2024
Hello fellow Hardy fans,
First a small apology - I'm not the most practically minded skipper!
Our 1986 Hardy 25 is in generally fine fettle. We seem to have a recurring issue trying to engage reverse gear - the control lever cannot be moved into reverse position at all and we seem also to have developed what feels like a 'false' neutral position where the lever is still angled forward. All a bit disconcerting on our last river trip out with the grandkids on board, fortunately a gentle glide against the river flow got us back onto our mooring safely.
A few years back someone in our marina 'fixed' the issue in a couple of minutes by removing some 'gunk' around the various linkages in the leg itself - I wasn't watching at the time, so not sure what he did. We did however go on to replace the control lever with a new Volvo part.
First pic below - forward gear engaged. Second - neutral engaged.
Guessing that I may now need to replace the shift cable. Would anyone (Simon?) happen to know the length I need?
We've also sustained a bit of prop damage and contemplating replacement/repair. I can measure diameter easily enough but unsure about pitch.
TIA
Mike
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