The Hardy Motor Boat Owners Club Message Board.
Message board > Engines > auxiliary power brackets
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Message 1 of 6
Posted by member ian stewart on Thursday 27 April 2017
Message 2 of 6
Posted by member Clive ffitch on Sunday 30 April 2017
We used one of the Force 4 brackets - make sure you use one that takes the weight of your auxiliary engine correctly. We spectacularly failed at that first time round! Check out my website for some useful pics...
http://www.photofilecornwall.co.uk/cornwall-xfiles/motorboating/hardy-family-pilot-adele-mods-2.htm (probably need to copy/paste to browser).
The brackets we used were all 95mm horizontal pitch holes, so could well be a standard. The vertical holes matched the original, though we did move bracket positions up/down to suit, which meant a couple of extra holes drilled, and staggered bracket position.
The bracket we finally used was Force 4 Part 630029 Ali bracket up to 20HP/35kg - perfectly matched for our Tohatsu 6HP, currently £99.95.
Message 3 of 6
Posted by member Simon Kidd on Sunday 7 May 2017
The type of bracket Clive has fitted is the common type, I fitted one to my old Navigator - just make sure you have enough room to allow the outboard to be tilted up if you're leaving the engine on.
Years ago Dad had a Navigator and kept the spare engine in the cockpit, the bracket he had was the removable type usually used in Wayfarer Dinghies - it was a neat little unit.
Make sure the transom is well reinforced using plywood and over laminations on the inside of the transom to provide plenty of strength - otherwise you will suffer flexing of the hull moulding when the Aux engine is used.
Message 4 of 6
Posted by member ian stewart on Monday 8 May 2017
Message 5 of 6
Posted by member Clive ffitch on Tuesday 9 May 2017
Good point re tilt of engine! We can achieve the "shallow water" tilt position of the engine when up, and with the engine turned slightly. This keeps the skeg a few inches above the water OK, but ideally I would like it higher. With cockpit coamings and cockpit covers, this is quite difficult to achieve on a Pilot.
Just another thought - locking the outboard on for security is also a factor - the OB bracket we use would not accommodate the standard secure OB tube type lock you can buy, because in the up position, the tilt arm gets in way of the line of the OB clamps. We get round this by using a strong motor-cycle cable lock through the rope fender eyebolt. Though whatever lock you use, it will never be 100% secure, as something somewhere can probably be unbolted or cut with any OB bracket you care to use!
It really is a minefield of measurements to get the bracket style and position for your own specific installation - and outboard leg length! Somewhat bitter cold comfort I'm afraid! I'm always looking at what everybody else does!
Message 6 of 6
Posted by member Simon Kidd on Tuesday 9 May 2017
Your description reminds me of the woes of getting Hauley's bracket set up correctly. Oh the nightmares, you're brought it all back to me.
Ian, Clives comments above are very valid. I would strongly suggest "offering up" the engine and bracket to check the fit with the engine fully tilted etc. On Hauley, I ended up fitting a larger pad on the bracket to essentially "push" the bracket a few inches astern and up (because i didn't do this testing before fitting the bracket), thus allowing the outboard to clear the transom when fully tilted, and allow the lower unit of the longshaft Yamaha 6hp Fourstroke to clear the water when underway. I used a Yamaha Screw clamp lock kit which just fitted.
I have attached a photo that should just about show the installation on Hauley.