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Message 11 of 11
Posted by member Gary on Saturday 15 May 2021
New set up fitted and removed a little slack at the engine mount too by fabricating a plastic sleeve. Things are better but disappointing as there is still about 10 degrees of slack. Also with the splashwell kits limitations there's a little less steering to port. Maybe I was expecting too much.
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Message 10 of 11
Posted by member Gary on Tuesday 11 May 2021
Couldn't see how the existing splashwell tube disconnected from the existing cable so took the cable out but heading to my garage I managed to drop it off the pontoon! Magnet fished for an hour without success so cursed myself, bit the bullet and ordered a new splashwell kit to hopefully get a trip in on Saturday. Returned at low tide when I could see the cable and fished it out. Turns out the splashwell tube is a fixed part on the cable so a new kit would have been needed anyway.
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Message 9 of 11
Posted by member Keith Lewcock on Saturday 8 May 2021
Sounds a good move. It took me a long time to find the name of the small half moon key that slots in the shaft. Make sure that the kit includes the right size woodruff key or ask the supplier as there are numerous sizes. I ended up filing mine to size. Look forward to hearing more.
Keith
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Message 8 of 11
Posted by member Gary on Saturday 8 May 2021
Thanks Keith, when I got the boat and fitted a replacement engine I looked at doing away with the splashwell kit but decided that to go through the ob bracket I would have had to cut a hole very low and tight to the transom top.
The slack in my system is definitely within the existing cable, its as if the cable sleeve has worn excessively allowing the cable to flex/bend within creating slack. I thought about a simple replacement cable but as others have suggested, I fear that standard maybe pushing the limits with a 4 stroke.
You can't compromise on safety so I've now ordered a £180 safe-t qc system rated to 250hp which I'm told will accept the wooden wheel.
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Message 7 of 11
Posted by member Keith Lewcock on Saturday 8 May 2021
Hi Colin. The quicket and cheapest method is to simply replace the steering cables and maybe the box. I made some similar changes but the improvements in slack overall were small. Check the plastic Delrin fitting inside the steeering wheel to make sure it is not damaged or split. The Delrin fitting sits on the shaft and transmits the steering movement from the wheel to the shaft. (see photo). Dont overtighten. The steering cables are fed from the steering box through to the OB via the fixed 'splashwell' fitting on the wall of the OB well then to the centre of the OB as you described. A better alternative is for the cable shaft to go through two holes on the fixed OB bracket with a lever system to the central pivot. See https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EhT_X2mA4HY.'How to repair the steering cable on an Orkney 520' A bit more tricky to replace but more secure, less play and you do away with the 'splashwell'. As I previously mentioned you could fit a Teleflex 'no feed back' system but you may have to make some alterations to keep the wooden steering wheel. On most replacement steering wheel shafts you require a 'woodruff' key. A small half moon steel key which fits in a slot on the steering shaft. I cannot be certain but with the right size shaft the Delrin may fit over the top allowing you to reattach the wood wheel. Otherwise you may require an adapter. I hope this helps. Keith
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Message 6 of 11
Posted by member Gary on Friday 7 May 2021
Been back to the boat again and I now understand that I have a morse steering system with a splashwell type kit. I've also searched the forum,,,, better late than never ,,, so it looks like I need either a replacement morse cable or a complete new teleflex system. I'd prefer to keep the original wooden wheel if I can.
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Message 5 of 11
Posted by member Gary on Friday 7 May 2021
Had a good look at the steering today . The worm responds immediately so there's no wear in the cogs but there's still slack somehow in the cable. I've looked at replacement systems but I can't see anything like I have. On mine the cable goes through the side of the transom well encased in a sort of flexible ball with the end of the rod bolting on to the bracket on the centre of the engine. Is that the usual Hardy set up ?
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Message 4 of 11
Posted by member Keith Lewcock on Sunday 2 May 2021
Hi Gary
As Colin mentioned the steering box can have wear to the crown wheel inside. A larger OB can increase the strain and wear in the steering box and if necessary the box should be upgraded. These boxes can be bought on ebay. An additional upgrade is to use a Teleflex 'no feed back' system suitable for your OB. Quite a bit more expensive but not as expensive as hydraulic. Worth while also checking the Delrin boss on the steering which can be cracked. As I mentioned in an earlier post this is usually due to overtightening of the nut holding the steering wheel on. The steering wheel relies on the key way to turn the OB not friction.
The German website toplicht has a range of Delrin adapters for Stazo wheels.
https://www.toplicht.de/en/shop/schaekel-fender-ausruestung-und-zubehoer/steuerrad-ruder/steuerrad-zubehoer/nabenadapter-fuer-yacht-steuerraeder-stazo
Hope this helps.
Keith
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Message 3 of 11
Posted by member colin hewitson on Saturday 1 May 2021
Apologies - Tork should of course be Torque! - I have had a long day today! (Doh!)
Col.
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Message 2 of 11
Posted by member colin hewitson on Saturday 1 May 2021
Hi Gary, I am no expert but it is possible to get wear in the cable and the 'crown wheel' in the steering box, seems a common problem on older boats, also having a larger OB can accellarate this I believe due to the OB motors 'tork'.
Sometimes one or both have to be replaced?
No doubt someone who has experienced/dealt with this problem can confirm!
atb
Col.
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Message 1 of 11
Posted by member Gary on Saturday 1 May 2021
After buying Topaz in September last year we finally got out today for a short trip up the Kyle's of Bute. Performance was my concern but happy to report all went relatively well. With a 50hp 4 stroke and 4hp 4 stroke auxiliary I tried to balance weight with the 2 batteries in the bow (as well as about 20 kg of existing weights) and 2 fuel tanks in lockers just behind the seats. I also fitted nauticus smart trim tabs. With the 2 of us the boat is happy to potter at 5 or 6 knots with relatively few revs ( haven't got tacho working yet) and will get up on the plane after about 5 seconds. Gets to about 20 knots max, trim up a bit, back off to about 3/4 revs and will cruise happily between 15 -18. My only concern is that even on a pretty flat sea she doesn't feel overly stable and needs a lot of attention on the steering. There is a bit of play in the steering which might not help but I can't figure out why.
The steering rod came through the transom well to the previous 2 stroke but I had to move it to a new hole further down and back to get it straight and level with the 4 stroke. A bit steep/tight looking when the engines out the water but can't see any other way of doing it. Using the existing holes the engine sits about 3/4" above the transom though the cavitation plate seems to be level with the hull.
I've been on a Navigator at 5-6 knots before and recall it took effort to keep straight too.
Should I be concerned about mine or is it par for the course?
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