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Message 8 of 8
Posted by member Richard Neale on Friday 6 August 2021
Sanding to clean wood, oxalic acid, tung oil and Woodskin is probably the ultimate.
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Message 7 of 8
Posted by member Tim Guest on Sunday 10 April 2011
I've successfully used an oxalic acid cleaner (Netrol?) on teak, after stripping the existing varnish - it's very good, and gets rid of any black marks.
It has the advantage that it also neutralises any alkaline paint stripper you may have used (the sort that is safe with plastic/GRP). I have learned the hard way that, as this stripper is strongly hygroscopic, if any is left un-neutralised, and the wood is revarnished, humidity can re-activate it - and strip your new varnish from underneath!
Cetol gets my vote also for a good finish.
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Message 6 of 8
Posted by member Nigel Stevens on Saturday 9 April 2011
Agree with Tim re cleaner but if you want a shiny wood finish Epiphanes gives a superb finish and 3 seasons durable. Awful job when you need to patch it up - total removal and start again. Deksol is easy to refinish but not very durable.
For my money neutral Cetol is the best by far- not perfect but durable 2 seasons and a light sand and 2 coats blends in superbly.
Have done my doors on 25 Mariner for past 8 years and also the other exterior teak. Do not recommend on bathing platform as it is very slippery when wet.
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Message 5 of 8
Posted by member Tim on Friday 8 April 2011
Am in Bermuda and I have a Hardy Fisher 24. Was down at the boat store getting some teak cleaning compounds and ran into the first mate on a large commercial fishing boat. He advised that rather than waste money on all these fancy cleaners to use a mixture of bleach and dish cleaning liquid and to scrub the teak with a plastic scouring pad as they did on their boat. I tried his method and worked a charm. Also advised not to use teak oil as only disappeared over short period. Cleaning in this way on more frequent basis is easier and cheaper and environmentally friendly. Works really well and less combersome than dripping teak oil on deck. Remember the reason teak goes grey is mostly mold/mildew and dirt, Bleach and soap get both.
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Message 4 of 8
Posted by member Martin Hanley on Wednesday 6 April 2011
Hi Jon
On my Fishing 20 all the teak was painted with garden fence paint!
I took all the teak off and spent many evenings scraping and sanding back to clean wood. I then applied 10/12 coats of Epiphanes varnish!!!
A lot of work but still looks fantastic after two seasons.
The easy way to bring back teak is to use a two part cleaner like Snappy teak and allow to dry for a couple of days, this will bring back the colour, then applie a couple of 50/50 White Spirit/Danish oil, then 6x coats undiluted applied with a brush and wiped off with a clean cloth. The teak will look like new!
Regards
Martin
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Message 3 of 8
Posted by member Keith on Wednesday 23 March 2011
Hi Jon,
Thanks very much indeed for taking the trouble to get back in details. I have begun this and have done exactly what you sat... it's fine so far. I will take notice of your advice re. three times a season - something I had not not anticipated, but no problem. K.
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Message 2 of 8
Posted by member Jon Dalton on Friday 11 March 2011
Keith
I restored the grab rails on my Navigator last season, and had to cut back gray wood. Having applied various finishes to a variety of woods over the years, I can say that teak is a little unusual. If you apply oil to gray wood it turns back to brown - i'm not entirely sure why, but it means that you don't have to cut the gray right back.
Wiping off with white spirit is more important when you are varnishing but with teak oil you are adding to the natural oil present in the wood, so there is 'nothing needing to be wiped off' as it were. I would not bother with the other products recommended by the manufacturer just apply new oil to the de-dusted wood with a small piece of rag or a brush.
Note - apply new coat of oil before the wood starts to look ropey - three times a season for a boat that stays outdoors all year. Don't get the oil on the GRP - it won't damage it, but it's difficult to remove completely and can take longer to clean up than the oiling operation itself.
A regular oiling means no need for repeated cutting back.
Jon D.
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Message 1 of 8
Posted by member Keith on Wednesday 2 February 2011
Hello,
It's now time to restore the finish of the grab rails on my newly acquired Hardy (1992-Fisher 200). This has been neglected by the former owner. I have carefully sanded off some algae/lichens! and the wood appears greyish in colour. I have bought some Teak Oil and intend to wipe the handles down with white spirit before oiling. The blurb on the Teak Oil bottles recommends using two other of their products before applying the oil - teak cleaner etc. - it would though wouldn't it. Is it wise to avoid using these extra treatments? Can the expense be avoided by using a non-marine dedicated product - and still get a decent and serviceable finish? Many thanks, Keith.
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